I am officially back in the United States. That does not
mean, however, that I have finished telling my stories. My last full day was one
of my favorites of the entire trip, and thought it was worth sharing.
We tried very hard
to go into Nyanga, one of the townships where we helped out at an after school
program. I was only able to go one time because the time of the program and
travel interfered with my internship. However, while we were there, we became
friends with one of the young men that leads the program. His name is Joseph
and he is remarkable. He donates so much time of his time to helping children
in need at the after school program. We got to talking about his life and I
think he could sense how interested we were in Nyanga and life in a township,
so he offered to bring us around the area. We had been busy for a majority of
the weekends and our only chance ended up being our last weekend there. So, we
waited for a bus on Saturday and it never came. The same happened Sunday
morning. We took it as a sign that we were not supposed to go, that maybe
something bad would have happened. I was slightly nervous to walk through a
township; we had heard stories about crimes and gangs and the usual warnings.
But I also really wanted a deeper understanding of what it felt like to be in a
township. So, I had a mix of relief and disappointment when the bus did not
come.
But, we had still
had plan to go to Mzoli’s that afternoon. Mzoli’s is a crazy place to eat in
Guguletu. Tourist’s go there, but it is also packed with local people. We had
to leave by ten in the morning to just get a table. By 12, the place was packed
and music was playing and it was extremely loud. In other words, it was
awesome. You go into the part where you buy meat (you can only get meat at
Mzoli’s), and it looks like any other deli. Only, there are large amounts of
raw meat and the place they cook it is right in the next room. We ordered pounds
and pounds of meat for our friends and all of the guests that were coming. They
cook it on a huge grill and you go wait outside and enjoy each other’s company
while they cook. There is a place to buy drinks next door so we bought some and
relaxed. As people showed up, they brought packs of beer, noise, and other food
with them. Time quickly flew by and we devoured our food in probably five
minutes. What I have forgotten to mention is our cab driver came to eat with us.
Since we use cabs a lot for transportation, we kept having the same guy, Amos.
He was very sad to know we would be leaving and offered to bring us there .
This was so great because we had no idea what we were doing. Anyways, we had
juicy lamb and beef and sausage. The sausage was my personal favorite, and I
normally don’t care for meat at all. We finished everything and realized we
would have to buy another round. Joseph and two of his friends, plus some of my
friends teachers were coming and we wanted everyone to have some. So we drank more
and enjoyed the music and each other. Joseph arrived and it took about five
minutes for us all to start joking around and having a good time with each
other. Joseph told us how they had planned for us to come and kids were going
to perform for us and we felt awful. We just did not know how we could have
gotten to Nyanga. So, after dancing and eating and having the best time we
could have asked for, we decided to walk to Nyanga from Mzoli’s and spend the
day with Joseph and his friends. But, right before we left, I took in the
moment and what I was feeling. I was so filled with joy because I was
surrounded by great people. Between the guys and teachers and our cab driver, I
felt so full and complete. Not everyone knew each other, but it did not matter.
And, we had treated everyone. No one stressed about money or other issues, we
were all just so happy to have them as company that we wanted them to enjoy.
That is when I realized we had come to understand ubuntu and what it means to
be one. It did not matter who paid for the food. We were all giving each other
happiness by being together and sharing what we had. It sounds corny, but it
took such a simple action of inviting everyone together to create such a
special moment.
So, we wanted that moment to continue and walked to Nyanga
with Joseph and three other awesome guys. Within five minutes we saw a goat
just chomping on some leaves. It was normal for them, but I thought it was really
funny. Cows and other animals just cross the street and hang around like its no
big deal. We all got along so well that I forgot I was in a township. I forgot
anything anyone ever told me and had an amazing time. They took us to each of
there homes and they may have been smaller than my home and my friends but they
were cozy and welcoming. It was like it was effortless for them to just welcome
us into their home. We saw a tavern where they sit and drink some beer and
enjoy each others company. We walked through an informal settlement, too. I
always wanted to because I cannot fathom living in a shack. These houses were
made because the government was not making homes in time, and they are very,
very small. I still though, was not scared. Kids stared at us and wanted to
touch our hands and acted like we were celebrities. I hated it because I don’t
deserve for them to treat me that way, I am not better than them. So I tried to
be as kind as possible and say hello and give off the vibe that I did not think
I was better than them. Joseph told us we were only the second white people to
walk through the settlement and they were not used to seeing people like us.
Still, people were kind. A women offered us homemade beer right from her house.
It was the most interesting beer I had ever tasted. It was a chalky white color
and in a tin can. We had to get down on one knee in honor of their ancestors
and drink the beer. It is what they drink during ceremonies, like when a boy
becomes a man. I was honored to have tasted it. As we continued, I felt like I
was hanging out in my neighborhood with old friends. I never once did I feel
unsafe. At times uncomfortable, but never threatened. We played on playgrounds
with kids, and kicked around a soccer ball. We greeted friends and even ran
into people we knew. I never felt a stronger sense of community.
We walked by
the station with taxis that could take us home, but did not want to leave yet.
So we kept walking to find a smiley. A smiley is a sheep’s head that is cooked
and eaten and still looks like a sheep right until you cut the piece and put it
in your mouth. It made me kind of sad that it resemble the animal so closely,
therefore I knew what I was eating, but I put the emotions aside because I
wanted the cultural experience. I am pretty sure they are called a smiley
because they still look like they are smiling. Anyways, we bought half a smiley
for 20 rand and went to sit in this little room with one bench, a table, and
newspaper. I ate a whole ear, a bite of the tongue, and a bite of the eye. The
ear was the hardest to get down considering parts of it were crunchy and others
not so much, but I have to admit the tongue was tasty. You sprinkle salt on it
and wipe your hands with newspaper. And, like most things, you share. It was
such an authentic experience, definitely not one for tourist. I felt like I was
immersed and a part of Nyanga. I also regretted meeting them so late in the
trip, because we had bonded so easily. I know I am not explaining this right
because I really have no words for what this day meant for me. All I can really
understand is that I had no inhibitions. I let the day happen and unfold. I
felt more a part of Cape Town than ever before. I felt safe. I felt close to
people. I felt welcomed. And, I wonder how anyone who lived in Cape Town would
not want to visit and enjoy the company of these amazing people. I truly felt
what Ubuntu meant and I think my life will be better for it.
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